Tuesday, December 11, 2007

Braised Cabbage, Restaurant Style

Years ago Julia Child and Robert Mondavi started a group called American Institute of Wine & Food and I happen to be a member of the local chapter here in the nation's capitol.

Mostly what the group does is organize dinners to meet the chefs and sample the food a local restaurants. I rarely go to those events, but I am particularly enthusiastic about one such outing at the Charlie Palmer's steak house where we spend a good part of the afternoon cooking with Chef Bryan Voltaggio, then sit for a late, multi-course lunch with several different bottles of wine served by the resident sommelier.

This year we covered the following:

* Preparing turkey two different ways, deep-frying and roasting, and the differences between heritage turkey and the ordinary supermarket bird.

* Brining a turkey with Bourbon.

* Frenching, assembling and cooking a crown roast of veal.

* Corn bread stuffing with home-made sausage and sage.

* Chestnut soup

* Making marshmallows for roasted sweet potatoes

* Creme brulees flavored with fresh vanilla and mint, and burned with ground candy canes.

That right there was worth the price of admission. You might even say that learning two different professional methods for Frenching a rack of veal was worth the price of admission.

But, in addition, we had a chance to banter with the chef a little over his preference for dumping large quantities of butter, cream and eggs into his cornbread stuffing (I mentioned heart-healthy alternatives and was roundly booed by everyone assembled).

We learned that the chef puts roasted chicken wings into his chestnut soup, which are then ground up with the vegetables and strained to make an incredibly rich concoction.

I discovered that Chef Voltaggio prefers to use metric weights and Celsius temperature reading when cooking with sugar because they are more accurate.

And I was pleased to pass along to my wife the ideas for mint in the creme brulee and burning with ground candy canes. She loves making creme brulees.

Then, after helping with some of the cooking, we sat down to eat everything. Did I mention that I was pretty much useless for the rest of the day?

This cooking lesson/orgy happened to fall on a day when I am normally making client meals and it also happened that Chef Voltaggio had braised red cabbage on the menu. That got my attention, since I was planning to make the very same dish for my client.

What I normally do is simply saute some red onion, then add a chopped head of cabbage, salt and some red wine vinegar to cook in a heavy pot. Significantly, at Charlie Palmer's they cook their cabbage with red wine and port in addition to the vinegar. And they throw in a sachet of cinnamon and star anise.

Well, that makes all the difference. So I wanted to pass along my amended recipe for braised red cabbage.

To wit: First, divide a medium head of red cabbage into quarters and trim away the core around the stem. Cut the cabbage into thin strips (they do this on a deli-style meat slicer at Charlie Palmer's, I do it by hand with a knife). Reserve the cabbage. Thinly slice one or two shallots.

Place the shallots along with 1/2 cup red wine, 1/4 cup red wine vinegar and 1/4 cup port wine in a heavy pot or Dutch oven. Bring to a boil and reduce by one-third. Add the cabbage to the pot and season with about 1 teaspoon coarse salt. Stir in one tart apple (such as Granny Smith), grated. Add a sachet containing one stick cinnamon and one star anise. Cover the pot, lower the heat and simmer for 1 1/2 hours, or until the cabbage is extremely tender and flavorful.

The salt will draw the liquid out of the cabbage, adding to the cooking broth. But if at any point the pot looks like it might be getting dry, add some more wine.

Result: the most tender and flavorful red cabbage you have ever tasted. Serve it alongside a crown roast of veal, if you happen to have one. If not, a deep-fried Kentucky Bourbon turkey will do.


Tanya said...

I wanted to let you know that I just gorged on your blog-- read it through beginning to end in one sitting. I can't tell you how excited I am to read about what you've done in the District, where I also live. I thought that there were very few people here, outside of top-restaurant chefs and the FreshFarm people, who were really active in slow cooking and promoting local food in this area, and it was exciting to hear about so many more.
I don't suppose you take adult students?

Ed Bruske said...

Tanya, you are a brave soul to slog through all that. It's great to hear from another D.C. food blogger. Maybe we should try to round up some others? One of the other hats I wear is organizers D.C. gardeners. There are things happening on that front as well, with perhaps much more food production to come. Interesting times.

My wife and I have thought about cooking classes, but nothing definite yet. I've linked to your blog. Let's stay in touch.

Tanya said...

Oooh. I know a few DC food bloggers, though only one really focuses on local stuff (Ramona at Houndstooth Gourmet and DCFoodies.)

I actually am on the waiting list for 3! community gardens, which is encouraging, as much as it disappoints me. I'm very jealous of your front yard. (Oh, and I linked to you as well. Thanks!)

leosatter said...

Maybe you can help me out with something…? I want to order all of my food online from now on because of various reasons, but I don’t know where to go for quality food. I have tried 2 companies so far, Fresh Dining, and and Celebrity Foods, but I wanna get others I can try out. Do you know of any? The main thing I’ve ordered so far is steak. I guess you can say, I’m a steak junkie. LOL!!! From what I have found out (from what I have ordered so far) I think I am able to regulate the quality of beef I buy. I hate going to a store and getting that crappy slab of beef that I have to cut down until there is like nothing left. Hahaha!!!! (its so true though) Anyhow, sorry that I made this comment so long. If you can help me out or point me in a direction where I might find more quality foods online, I would greatly appreciate it. Have a good day or night! (depending on when you read this) LOL!!!!